Day 66 – Sweet Civilization

Panguitch Lake, UT to Cedar City, UT – 41 miles

Today I woke up expecting a short easy day.  Finish the climb and then enjoy the 25 mile descent into Cedar City where I had touched base with a Warmshowers host.  Just thinking about the prospect of a bed and a shower made me happy since it had been just over a week since I had either one.  It was cool and rained on and off throughout the night, so I was able to sleep until just before 9.  It was sprinkling as I tore down my tent.  I ate my last packs of oatmeal in Bryce Canyon City yesterday, so I had a couple of granola bars, almonds, and dried cranberries for breakfast.

I’m not sure what time I rode out, but throughout the entire climb it was threatening to rain.  I was feeling very lethargic and every hill I crested showed another insurmountable climb ahead of me.  It felt like I would never get to the top.  The further I climbed the colder it got.  I tried to embrace it, especially thinking about how hot I was just a few days ago and how hot it could get within the next couple of days, but the dreariness of the ride and endless climbing really started to wear on me.

 

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I made it to the top and had a few miles of rolling hills as I pedaled through Cedar Breaks National Monument.  I couldn’t bring myself to stop and look at any of the overlooks because it was starting to rain harder and I just wanted to get to lower elevation where I knew it would be warmer.  As I started the first big descent it started to rain harder and was mixed with hail.  I figured I better stop and pull out the rain gear if I wanted to cruise down the hill at full speed.  As I put on the brakes my rear wheel locked up and started to fish tail a bit, but I was able to keep it together until I stopped – close call.

When I started descending again the rain had turned into full on hail.  Eventually it got to the point where it was accumulating on the road and I could feel the impact of each ice pellet through my rain gear, not fun.  I briefly considered trying to find a place to wait it out, but didn’t see any suitable shelter, so I forged ahead.  My hands were freezing at this point, but the thought of stopping to dig through my bags to get my warmer gloves sounded terrible when I knew if I could just get to lower elevation it would warm up and at least I would only be dealing with rain.

Once I was low enough, the hail turned to rain, and eventually quit all together.  The terrain was amazing, but all I wanted was to get to Cedar City where I knew I could have a hot shower.  I managed to snap one photo of the descent.

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When I got into Cedar City I found a Coffee Shop (The Grind)  to hide out in and try to touch base with Joe, the Warmshowers host.  I ordered a bagel breakfast sandwich and a cup of coffee.  Joe told me to head to the house whenever, so after I finished my food I rode the rest of the way to his place.  It was pouring down rain and by the time I got to his place the garage door was open and I was able to wheel my bike right in, sweet relief.

Joe was at work, but his friend Alice was there to greet me.  We talked and she showed me around.  I grabbed a shower and it felt incredible.  It felt so good to be clean, warm, dry, and not sweating.  After awhile we headed to a local pizza joint for dinner.  Joe is a manager at a roof manufacturing plant and had to work late.  He ended up meeting us there after awhile.  The food was fantastic.  I left satisfied with full belly.  Joe and Alice had plans to go to a play.  There is a Shakespeare Festival here every summer all summer long where there are various plays.  Tonight was Taming of the Shrew.  I went back to the house and enjoyed a beer and the view on the back patio.

Tomorrow the plan is to make an excursion to Zion National Park, the ninth park of the trip!

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